Guggenheim: Maybe it's because this ecosystem is being protected, it's got a leg up on other ecosystems around the world that are being heavily fished and heavily impacted by pollution. So that makes it more resilient. That's one of the theories that if we do what we can locally that these reefs have a better chance of being resilient to what's happening globally.
Cooper: So something here holds the key to figuring out how to save these other reefs and bring them back, in some cases.
Guggenheim: That's what I think.
Tourism here is tightly regulated. Only 500 fly fisherman and 1,000 divers are permitted to come each year, and the fishermen have to release their catch.
Andres Jimenez helps run the only place to stay out here - a handful of boats operated by a company called Avalon. It's a joint venture between the Cuban government and an Italian company, and it employs a lot of former fishermen and their families, giving them a stake in preserving the area and keeping commercial fishing boats out.
Cooper: If there was commercial fishing here now?
Jimenez: If there was commercial fishing here or not only that, if we weren't here protecting and taking care of all the area, it would be, poof, very fast. There's no way you can keep it safe.
Cooper: All these big fish--
Jimenez: It's too big. It's too big and they're--
Cooper: All these-- all the sharks, the grouper--
Jimenez: Yeah, sharks and grouper...
Cooper: All the big fish would all be gone.
Jimenez: They would take it in one day.
The fish aren't the only creatures here that enjoy protection. The crocodiles are free to hunt in the shallow water near the islands. Even these giant rodents called jutia are fearless. Elsewhere in cuba, they're made into stew. Here no one can hunt them.
Jimenez: They feel very safe here because we would never eat one of these things.
Andres wanted to show us what the reef looked like at night. So, with some trepidation, we plunged into the black water. The darkness was so complete we felt like we were swimming through space, but we found plenty of life on the sea floor.
[Cooper: You see that. That's one big crab.]
Cooper: At night you find all sorts of sea creatures that you would never see during the day like this crab right here which we interrupted in the middle of its dinner.
Jimenez: Anderson, I want to show you this big Moray eel here, here.
The eel didn't seem to want company... so we moved on.
We spent several nights and days exploring the reef. Swimming through tunnels of living coral 100 feet below the surface.
We were so close to sharks so often it was tempting to touch them.
It takes some time to adjust to the routine wonders of this place, but after a while, even we began to feel like residents of the reef.
Guggenheim: You know, in the conservation world, the work that I do, a lot of it is pretty negative. You know? Things have gotten pretty bad. So to come to a place like this and see it so alive, you know, I feel like a teenager again. I feel like there really is hope.