中国古制服色之玄衣纁裳—
探「玄」「纁」之文化特质
Ancient Chinese Usage of Colors in Costume –
The Cultural Qualities of the Colors “Black” and “Reddish Yellow”
台南女子技术学院服装设计系 讲师 庄庆美
摘 要
千古中华国家政制的设施中，特有其冠衣色彩之异色、异等、异用成其体系，而作成国家「政制」的一环。外在多采多姿的风貌与内涵道协人天的文化思想两相并蓄，是中华服饰文化的特质。
而种类繁多的冠衣色彩服制，在最尊贵的服饰色彩中，以「玄」、「纁」两色之搭配，最为崇高，涵育着诗、书、礼、乐之用，圣贤教化之施，道德仁义之寄，烛照古今，蕴涵着民族文化特有的价值，与儒家思想诸多的良善德目，并以传统哲学思想为依归，达到天人合一的境界。也在在彰显中国古人「制物象德」的智慧与服饰规制的效能。
「玄」「纁」两色的搭配使用中，无论中国古制的「色彩观」，抑或今人之「色彩学」(chromatics)，皆可称绝对搭配，也因此印证，中国古人的「色彩」智慧是以视感官为根据的光学色感，更别有中国的哲学境界；与现代西洋科学的「色彩学」以光学原理为理论基础，是不谋而合的。
关键词：玄色、纁色、色彩学、服饰文化
Ancient Chinese Usage of Colors in Costume –
The Cultural Qualities of the Colors “Black” and “Reddish Yellow”
Ching-Mei Chuang
Lecturer, Department of Fashion Design, Tainan Women’s College of Arts & Technology
Abstract
Among all the in the political systems in Chinese nations through history, there was a special system with different colors, of different ranks and uses when in refers to headdresses and costumes, and therefore, costume became a very important segment in the political system of the nation. The most colorful outer appearance and the inner significance of achieving the cultural convention in which “the ways to make coherent the heaven and the earth” coexist and have become the special qualities of Chinese culture in costume.
The colors used in all varieties of the color system of the headdresses and costumes, the combination of the colors “black” and “ “ was considered to be the most noble among the colors considered “most esteemed” in the uses of colors in costumes. It contains the uses of poetry, books, etiquette and music; the realization of the teaching and prevalence of the saints and the wise; it houses the ethics, virtues, kindness and righteousness that has been shining through history and containing the special values of the ethnical culture. It follows many virtues in the Confucian thinking and relied on the traditional philosophical convention in pursuing the in which the heaven and humans become one. It once and again demonstrates the function of the rules in costume and the wisdom of “defining objects in representing virtues” of the ancient Chinese.
探「玄」「纁」之文化特质
Ancient Chinese Usage of Colors in Costume –
The Cultural Qualities of the Colors “Black” and “Reddish Yellow”
台南女子技术学院服装设计系 讲师 庄庆美
摘 要
千古中华国家政制的设施中，特有其冠衣色彩之异色、异等、异用成其体系，而作成国家「政制」的一环。外在多采多姿的风貌与内涵道协人天的文化思想两相并蓄，是中华服饰文化的特质。
而种类繁多的冠衣色彩服制，在最尊贵的服饰色彩中，以「玄」、「纁」两色之搭配，最为崇高，涵育着诗、书、礼、乐之用，圣贤教化之施，道德仁义之寄，烛照古今，蕴涵着民族文化特有的价值，与儒家思想诸多的良善德目，并以传统哲学思想为依归，达到天人合一的境界。也在在彰显中国古人「制物象德」的智慧与服饰规制的效能。
「玄」「纁」两色的搭配使用中，无论中国古制的「色彩观」，抑或今人之「色彩学」(chromatics)，皆可称绝对搭配，也因此印证，中国古人的「色彩」智慧是以视感官为根据的光学色感，更别有中国的哲学境界；与现代西洋科学的「色彩学」以光学原理为理论基础，是不谋而合的。
关键词：玄色、纁色、色彩学、服饰文化
Ancient Chinese Usage of Colors in Costume –
The Cultural Qualities of the Colors “Black” and “Reddish Yellow”
Ching-Mei Chuang
Lecturer, Department of Fashion Design, Tainan Women’s College of Arts & Technology
Abstract
Among all the in the political systems in Chinese nations through history, there was a special system with different colors, of different ranks and uses when in refers to headdresses and costumes, and therefore, costume became a very important segment in the political system of the nation. The most colorful outer appearance and the inner significance of achieving the cultural convention in which “the ways to make coherent the heaven and the earth” coexist and have become the special qualities of Chinese culture in costume.
The colors used in all varieties of the color system of the headdresses and costumes, the combination of the colors “black” and “ “ was considered to be the most noble among the colors considered “most esteemed” in the uses of colors in costumes. It contains the uses of poetry, books, etiquette and music; the realization of the teaching and prevalence of the saints and the wise; it houses the ethics, virtues, kindness and righteousness that has been shining through history and containing the special values of the ethnical culture. It follows many virtues in the Confucian thinking and relied on the traditional philosophical convention in pursuing the in which the heaven and humans become one. It once and again demonstrates the function of the rules in costume and the wisdom of “defining objects in representing virtues” of the ancient Chinese.
